July 15

Neither maxim has proved true this summer, neither “red sky in the morning” nor “red sky at night”, we just can't seem to count on that old mariner’s quip.

We departed much too late, by the time we left Newcombe Bay, the winds were wild and the seas even more so.  Hours later, after crossing Laredo Sound and venturing along the coast of Princess Royal Island, realizing that a major gale was brewing that we couldn't avoid, we took precious time to seek harbor in several remote indentations along the southerly west coast, but to no avail.  Though the exploration was exciting, we couldn't find anything to anchor in. The winds up to 20 knots and gusting, wave chop and sea swell of six feet, we turned back north to fight the storm for an hour more before we made it into Surf Inlet’s last bay, Penn Harbor.  Seven miles in we found perfect anchorage and settled down to an evening of boat-shuddering winds.  Gratefully, the waters remained civilized but the wind sheared with downdrafts until morning.  Sleep was fitful, monitoring the anchor, Allusion moaning and complaining, morning arrived with a hasty departure in finally calm conditions.  We’re having fun, right?  

Side note: We watched another tail slapping whale off Campania Island.  It’s underside was completely white, top side black.  When the sun reflected off, it was a brilliant blast of light atop dark seas and we could see it for miles as we sailed past.