Rafting fun.

From a day of whale sighting and photography, we sailed into Warm Springs, the next anchorage north.  We rafted up to Misty Fjords, a small excursion vessel, with Caption Jerry's permission and four cans of very good beer as a thank you.  We hiked up to the Lake Baranof, then took in the public bath house with constant piping of sulfer laden water mixed with ice cold waterfall runoff.

A luxury in the wilderness, public hot bath!

Warm Springs, many gloves laundry day

Boardwalk Village Warm Springs

Bubble Feeding

We had about four hours to view and shoot several families of humpbacks.  They surfaced right behind Allusion and came within 5 to 10 feet of the port side, so close my telephoto lens couldn't get the entire shot, but I did get a fairly good photo of the nostrils of one of them.  I tried to capture as many soundings as possible and noticed the different fluke designs of several individuals.  It was incredible day of close up encounters with these magnificent mammals.

Brandon and Annie joined us after hours traveling  from Missoula and a late arrival to tiny Kake.  We left the next morning and headed for Baranof Island in calm seas to anchor in a quiet harbor with many waterfalls.  The next day we exited and headed north up the east side and almost immediately sighted whales.

Annie whale watching on deck

Brandon shooting on the bow.

Unidentified swimmy critter.

Tim and I have listened to  dozens of fishermen since we've been in these northern waters.  Overwhelmingly nearly all believe that the current fishing practices are not sustainable, same as elsewhere on this planet. We are in Kake, Alaska, a tiny Tlinglit community where nearly all are or were fishermen.  They have fished themselves out of a livelihood and some blame the fish and game folks for not seeing the future outcome, some are just bitter that the past is gone and overfishing can't continue.  That said, traditional practices are long gone, and all use nets with by-catch. It seems to me that we are all culpable; those of us who purchase this unsustained product but especially non local fish such as tuna and sardines, and those who choose to make this industry their livelihood with over harvesting to make a living in six weeks of work.  It's impossible not to have an opinion about it, now seeing first-hand what has occurred here over the last century and that learning from past mistakes in the name of greed is ignored.  

Local fish, shrimp or crab is not available anywhere here in the local markets and some residents now say that they can't even get fish for themselves.  For many of these folks, it is the whales, sea lions, sea otters (they eat crab) and seals who are the enemies, not the fractured human practices of over harvesting herring, salmon, shrimp and crab.  The "abundance of fish",  I am learning, is a myth.  Old timers agree.

I put a line in recently and found only the little weird fellow in the photo above.

     Most everyone we meet is a current power boater and a small number are ex-sailors.  It seems that folks cross over from sailing to power but we went the opposite direction and whether a wise choice or not, we have yet to know.  For every thirty power boats, there is one sail boat. We also meet many power boaters who never tire of letting us know that Tim and I are, nevertheless, mostly motoring on this journey since the prevailing winds are either Northerlies or Southerlies.  That said, we have sailed every day but one since we left Poulsbo in mid May.  Every chance we get, we hoist the sails even if just for 15 minute increments.  We have had several stellar days with hours of perfect winds for excellent sailing.  We’re grateful.  

     Cruising the inside passage is challenging whether powering or sailing.  There are countless logs and wispy rafts of kelp to avoid, extreme currents and tides, shallow and/or crazy narrow passages, wildly dangerous rapids, fishing boats, crab and shrimp pots to avoid, cruise ships lunging at you through the fog and powerful, unexpected winds that can whip up even at anchor, called williwogs.  Once in Alaska, the charts are not reliable, depths are uncertain and rocks not charted. The boating guides that do exist are at least ten years old.  Suitable anchorages can be uncomfortably distant from each other.  Meeting up with other boaters and sharing local knowledge has been a vital help on this leg of the journey. The few sailors we do meet tell us that blue water (ocean and outside) is much better even with the gale force winds.  A sail boat can handle it, most trawlers and tugs can’t.  Has me wondering….

Henry's Arm in Pybus Bay, Admiralty Island
We were here in absolute solitude other than a few eagles.

   

No one in sight on these open stretches.

Whale splashing 

The sound is more like thunder than whacking the water.

As interesting as the whale itself!

Cooking on a windy day is never easy but in a sailboat the added slant when well-heeled makes an interesting challenge for even a seasoned boater.  Since I am the chief cook on this vessel, I suffer most when the skipper decides (unbeknownst to me below deck) to hoist sails when I am in the midst of meal preparations.  I have to stop whatever I am doing and hope my ingredients don’t careen across the counter onto the floor (which has happened more than once) while I frantically rush around to put the cabin in sail-fit shape; latch the cupboards, put the jade plant in the head’s sink, fruit basket on the floor, books stowed, water pitcher and tea kettle placed into the deep galley sink.  Mind you, that all this occurs at an impossible slant, grabbing with my free hand onto any handhold nearby to keep me from slamming into whatever is stationary.  In my sweetest voice, (not) I remind Tim to let me know when he notices a perfect wind and then decides that the genoa MUST be unfurled at that particular time on an especially stormy day.

     Then back to the galley where the finishing touches happen with my body at an angle either near or far from the targeted preparations.  I flip the lever on the stove to disengage it so the gimbal can freely swing keeping contents in the pot and not on the floor.  Opening and closing cupboards can be either effortless or agonizingly difficult depending on which way the boat is heeled. I won’t use knives nor open the refrigerator at this point.  It just has to wait until another time. Most lunches are prepared ahead of time so all that is needed is assembling.  We eat a lot of wraps, home-made soups, fresh fruit, veggies and if possible, a cup of tea to finish the meal. Tim is not as conscientious as me regarding all things nutritious and will frequently add to the meal a good portion of Fritos, Cheetos or other snacks he has squirreled away.  Bad Tim.

    Of course, when it comes time to eat, the skipper joyfully manages to even-keel the boat.  Funny how that happens.

When the other boaters that we meet along the way ask us where we are headed next, we mention our plans but also include the reality that we take it as it comes.  Such was today.  We left Juneau after fueling up at the friendliest dock ever.  He even offered and made us a fresh cup of java as we shoved off.  Our plans were to sail to Pybus Bay but decided to head back to Taku Harbor in the north section of Stephen’s Passage.  We just wanted a short day with a bit of sailing.We had been there with Kate and Connor so were familiar with the floats for a safe place on a windy evening.  It was a sunny and peaceful cove and the float was empty until a few hours later.  I jumped out of Allusion to take the lines as a Nordic Tug, Salty Dawg,  motored slowly alongside to tie up.  30 minutes later another boat came in to tie up across from us.  It was Spirit Journey, owned by Rob and Michelle from Seattle who own a woodworking company where Connor has spent just a few of his dollars as of late.  We had met them in Anacortes in March and were delighted to get reacquainted.  Michelle offered us all hospitality for a chance to swap stories and local knowledge.  Every boater has more than a few stories to share and we never tire of them regardless of the exaggerations that are sure embellish truth!  It’s been another perfect day, and we end it with bear watch along the west shore.

Couldn't tell if it was coming or going, regardless, the story is evident that much comes to these islands by barge.

Don't know the name of this glacier

Last photo of Connor and Kate!  We anchored out, they explored in our inflatable kayak.

The notion has crossed my mind, more than once, how the seemingly immeasurableness of this vast inside passage has been tamed to the extent that it is now.  Tamed and abandoned.  Ghost towns, derelict canneries, entire mountains harvested of timber, lumber and pulp mills, dams, gold and other mines developed during a time when comforts were hard to come by.  They’re a testament to extreme human endeavors. It boggles my mind.  The towns and settlements that remain, strive to succeed in a mostly cruel land. It is understandable, the desire for cruise ships to harbor, to fatten the coffers for the lean times which can be nine months of the year.  Yet, the North holds abundance even now,  and I am grateful for the set-aside lands that remain wild and nearly imperturbable by humans.  

Auto pilot is a welcome amenity when the days are long.

58*18.10’N, 134*25.76’W (Juneau, Alaska)

Our coordinates will descend accordingly as we journey back through Gastineau Channel, then to Pybus Bay of Admiralty Island.  Again, we will be off-grid for at least a week, we surmise since we doubt there are any cell towers till Sitka.  We may get lucky in Kake, on the Island of Kupreanof, since it is a Tlinglit community of 700 or so, however, there is no power or water available.   

Sunset at 10:15 with visible light until after midnight, sunrise at 3:30, the Solstice arrives.

Connor on Dingy patrol.

Katie in Power Nap Mode!

Iceberg Lookout

Southern Glacier

Tim seems to think it is an adventure to have the Coast Guard board Allusion.  Our cruise into Juneau was bright and sunny, the very weather the US Coast Guard prefers to be out and about, doing their duty.

     They pulled alongside, jumped on board, hand guns on hips, wearing bullet proof vests, and proceeded to inspect and verify.  Vessel documents in order, emergency flares current, numerous fire extinguishers, personal identification papers, all sea cocks closed, Power-Sail Squadron members, they were pleased and we passed with flying colors.  Connor and Katie added the experience to their thus far, interesting Alaskan encounters.

Early part of Tracy Arm.  Photo by Sally Cole of Lucky Stars

Blogging here is a challenge, wishing I could upload more photos but it takes such a long time for each photo.  Will continue to persevere as technology allows.

June 20

We’ve been on this journey for over a month with two to go.  Each day when I arise I tell myself that I wouldn't want to be anywhere else on earth at this time nor with any other person than those I am with.  Each day brings new surprises, new friends and new challenges.

We just said goodby to Connor and Kate as they fly back to Seattle.  We have loved our short five days with them and wish they could have stretched time to allow us more of their company.  They are fun and joy-filled and their happiness spills over into our hearts.

I realized that Tim and I accomplish much alone so the help with stern tying, docking, watches at the helm, iceberg lookouts were dearly appreciated.  Katie was the go-to for everything once on solid ground, successfully navigating us from dock to restaurant, excursions, location of laundry services, all with google maps.  What a relief to have so much assistance.

The four of us rendezvoused for dinner in Juneau with friends from the flotilla, Reinhardt, Sheila and their daughter from London.   Their boat, Ancient Murrelet, was our host for drinks with ice from LeConte Glacier.  The city is packed with cruise ship folks, up to 20k a day.  It must be a boon to the economy but the trinket shops and faux authenticity were a drawback for us.

The next day we four again rendezvoused with another couple, Drew and Katrina from Bella Luca, one of the two fast boats from the flotilla.  We spent the day with them, breakfast, tour of Mendenhall Glacier then Auke Bay.  We sadly said our goodbyes again, as they were heading south back to their homeport in Washington.

All is quiet on Allusion as we prepare for a new leg of the journey.  Tomorrow we’ll venture to Pybus Bay on Admiralty Island just south of Juneau.  We won’t be going to Haines or Skagway, choosing instead to travel to remote places.  Brandon and Annie will floatplane into Kake for a week of cruising the east of Baranoff, then north up through the passage and down into Sitka.  Again, we will be off the grid for a while, anchoring off and sailing as much as possible. 

High pressure appears offshore, which means good weather!  Hooray.  We are monitoring 16 and standing by.

Katie's Iceberg-ette!

Motoring through Frederick Sound with the transom open.  

Leading the way into Tracy Arm

Connor is bow spotter for iceberg avoidance.

Katie and Connor captured glacier ice for an evening cocktail!

Whales abound!

 This orchid traveled from Poulsbo to Petersburg, a Valentine gift that came with the boat.  I gave it to the florist to better care for it.  They were delighted to adopt it and gave me a small jade plant to replace it.  It's a better boat plant and all are happy.

Captain Bob Dolan of Petersburg, Alaska

Jane Maufe and David show their route.  Yes, she wears pearls,
and is every bit the English Lady!

Polar Bound

We met so many interesting folks in Petersburg on the dock and in town.  Bob Dolan, a colorful local and Jane and David author of The Frozen Frontier.  They invited me on their amazing vessel and shared some stories of their adventures through the Northwest Passage.  To get the entire story, I took home the book and highly recommend to anyone!